How to Replace the Charge Port On your Ultimate Ears UE Megaboom
If the charging light on your UE Megaboom does not turn on when you plug it in or if it only turns on when the charge cable is held at a certain angle, the Micro USB port will need to be replaced. Lets get into it!
If you would prefer to read a written repair guide, check that out below. Or if the tool cost seems prohibitive for a one time repair and you would prefer that we complete this repair for you, check out our Repair Catalog to see if we offer repair services for this device.
Are you a business? We offer wholesale discounts on our repair services if you are sending numerous units in for repair or want to send us continuing batches of devices for repair on a regular basis. Contact our support team for more info Info@JoesGE.com (This email is only for wholesale inquiries, please contact Support@JoesGE.com for other inquiries).
Repair Difficulty: Difficult This repair is highly technical and deals with small components and circuitry that are easy to damage. We would only recommend to complete this repair if you have experience working with such small circuitry and the equipment required to work on it.
Time to complete: 1-2 hours
The tools and parts that you will need for this repair:
- A new Micro USB Charge Port
- Strong Pry Tool (a guitar pick, or the dull side of a butter knife can also do the trick)
- A soldering iron (around 15 watts is good for small electronics and would be cheaper than purchasing a temperature variable unit).
- Solder Flux (To ensure clean solder joints)
- Solder Wick (To remove excess solder, not necessary, but cheap and useful)
- Heat Gun (A hairdryer will not work in this instance as you need to heat a small area of a PCB and heating the whole PCB could cause other damage).
- Repair Kit (Or a set of Precision Tweezers)
1. Remove The Charge Port PCB
Use your pry tool to lift the charge port end of the rubber speaker part up and away from the cloth. You will need to work your way around the whole of the speaker gently lifting until you hear the pop sound of the clips detaching.
Lift the black rubber gasket off of the outside of the grey rubber piece then lift the black plastic insert out of the charge port PCB using your pry tool.
The whole board that the charge port is soldered into comes straight up and out of the speaker. You can lift it by gently prying it up on all sides a little bit each time until it comes loose. It is held in place by two connectors that do not lock. It may be helpful to watch this part in The Video.
Once the PCB is free, remove the grey rubber gasket that is surrounding the board.
Remove the orange gasket from around the center plug on the bottom of the PCB.
2. Remove The Old Charge Port
While your heat gun is warming up, its good to note that there are two different types of PCBs that UE used in the Megaboom, one had two mics and the other only had one. If your PCB looks like the one on the left, it is not broken.
Apply a small amount of flux onto the PCB around the base of the micro USB port then using your heat gun (Set to around 300F or 149C) heat up the micro USB port while applying upward pressure with a set of tweezers or something similar. The Flux will melt and the solder should melt within 10-15 seconds afterwards releasing the charging port.
Clean the area around where the port used to be on the PCB using a Q tip wetted with rubbing alcohol.
We would also recommend using some solder wick to remove any leftover solder from the contact points on the PCB as it will make installing your new charge port much easier.
3. Install The New Charge Port
Slide the new charging port into the open holes where the old one was.
Solder the posts on the back of the charging port into place so that it will not fall out.
Set the PCB against something so that there is pressure pushing the charging port into the PCB then apply some flux to the posts that you just soldered and heat them up again to ensure that the charge port is properly secured and seated into its place. This can take awhile as you move the soldering iron around to each post and check that the port is fully seated.
Clean all of the leftover flux off of the PCB using a Q tip wetted with rubbing alcohol.
Apply flux to the pins of the charging port on the other side of the PCB then solder them into place, making sure that they are properly seated on their gold pads and not touching each other. Also make sure that no solder is contacting the housing of the charge port.
Test that each pin is soldered onto its pad by using a flat head screwdriver or something similar to push each pin and check for movement. If any of them move, solder them to their pad.
Clean the area with some rubbing alcohol on a Q tip to remove leftover flux.
4. Put The Speaker Back Together
Reinstall the grey rubber gasket onto the PCB.
Reinstall the black rubber band onto the outside of the grey gasket.
Reinsert the black plastic ring into the inside of the grey gasket.
Reinstall the orange gasket around the center plug on the bottom of the PCB.
Reinstall the PCB into the speaker carefully to avoid damaging the two plugs. Make sure to apply even pressure to get it seated then pushed down hard until it clicks into place.
Lastly, close up the rubber flap on the speaker by applying pressure all around the base of the speaker until you hear it snap into place and the rubber is flush with the fabric.
5. Get back to enjoying your gear 🤓